Although India is the land of festivals, the country witnesses a distinct excitement in the air with the arrival of Autumn in the month October-November. This is the period of India's biggest festivals of Navratri, Vijay Dashami, and Deepawali along with several minor festivals interspersed in between. This period is marked by celebrations, ceremonies, prayers, get-to-gathers, feasting, and various kinds of activities. The festivities commence with the Pratipada(First) day of the bright fortnight of Ashwini month. This is also the starting of much famed Shardiya Navratri (Literally Autumn Nine day's festival) which is also called Durga Pujo, Dashain, Navrathri, Nauratan, etc in different parts of India and South Asia. Navratri is celebrated differently in India’s various regions. For many people, it is a time of religious reflection and fasting, while for others it is a time for dancing and feasting. Among fasting, customs are observing a strict vegetarian diet and abstaining from alcohol and certain spices. During these 9 days (the number of days differs according to region) the Shakti or ultimate feminine energy is worshipped in different forms. This festival culminates with Vijay Dashami (The 10th day) which is associated with the victory of good over evil. This day also commemorates the legendary battle between Lord Rama and Ravana in which Ravana was killed. This is followed by a series of minor festivals like Karwa Chauth, Ahoi Ashtami, etc in the next 15 day's which is also a major preparatory period for the upcoming Magnum Opus. People flock to markets and malls to shop for new cloth, decorative items, candles, sweets, etc during this period. This is followed by a 5-day festival during which the Indian and South Asian festive season reaches its zenith. Yeah! you guessed it right it is the much-awaited Diwali. Fireworks, sweets, lights, colors, and the best festive mood of the year, During these five days, the houses are decorated with hundreds of lamps and lights, Rangolis, flowers, Torans, and various other traditional artworks. As it is impossible to cover the whole festive season in one blog I will be only covering the first phase of this season; that is the Navratri.
There exists variation in worship practices and rituals associated with Durga puja, as is the case with other Hindu festivals, in the Indian subcontinent. Hinduism accepts flexibility and leaves the set of practices to the choice of the individuals concerned. Different localized rituals may be observed regionally, with these variations accepted across temples, pandals, and within families. While in some regions like North India the non-veg meal and liquor are strictly prohibited, in regions of Bengal and Nepal it is not the case. While in some regions the classical form of the goddess is worshipped as in central and western India, while in Himalayan regions like Uttrakhand different indigenous local cults are also popular. But what links the whole breadth and length of the subcontinent is the enthusiasm in which the Divine feminine energy is worshipped right since 3000 BCE.
In the North: Worship of Nau-Durga (Nine forms of Durga)
In north India, the grand festive season starts with the first day of Navratri, which is believed to be the day of the creation of the universe by the supreme mother Goddess the 'Adi-Shakti'. On the first day, a clay idol of Mother Durga is installed after various rituals, along with a Kalash (Which is a symbol of auspiciousness) and Jau(Pearl Barley) in a clay pot. It is believed that pearl Barely was the first fauna that the divine goddesses created trillions of years ago. The first day of worship is centered around the creation of the universe. Each night has its own form of the goddess. The most important ritual of any Hindu worship is Aarti (offering divine light through prayers, chants, sounds of conch, bells and drums, and lamps). Due to its immense importance, Aarti is performed daily twice one in the morning and one in the evening during these holy 9 nights. To perform Aarti we light up camphor and Ghee lamps. Along with Aarti, Prasad (food offered to God) is offered daily which usually is strictly vegetarian. The Prasad has a variety of food items like Sweets, fruits, snacks, dairy products, etc. Other important rituals are offering Aromatic incense and oils, flowers, jewelry, cosmetics, fabrics, etc.
Each of the nine manifested forms is separately venerated for a night during the festival. The nine forms of Durga or Each of the nine manifested forms are separately venerated for a night during the festival. The nine forms of Durga or Parvati are Shailaputri, Brahmacharini, Chandraghanta, Kushmanda, Skandamata, Katyayani, Kaalratri, Mahagauri, and Siddhidatri. Shailaputri represents Parvati in her stage of childhood. Brahmacharini represents Parvati in her phase of asceticism. Parvati had attained this epithet due to her performing austere and harsh penances to have Lord Mahadev as her husband for years. Chandraghanta represents Parvati in her married aspect. Kushmanda represents Devi Parvati in her stage of discovering that she is none other than Mahashakti. Skandamata represents Devi Parvati in her stage of motherhood. Katyayani represents Parvati in her warrior stage. When the Gods invoked Mahashakti to protect them from demon Mahishasura, Parvati materialized from a sacrificial fire in the avatar of a ten-armed Goddess, who is then known the world over as Katyayani, due to her having assumed her birth in the home of sage Katyayan being his daughter and killed the dreaded demon after a long fight. Kaalratri represents Parvati in her phase of destruction. She is called the Goddess of time and death because she is above and beyond its reign as she controls the time in which someone's death arrives and she is beyond the darkness. She is also that aspect of a woman who is constantly enraged by injustices and fights them to save society as she is aggressive and can bring about destruction when her threshold is crossed. Mahagauri represents Parvati in her phase of recovery. After she embraced her form of Kali, Parvati returned to her normal form but with skin as black as night clinging on to her person. On Lord Brahma's direction, she immersed herself in the Manasarovar river and came back out afterward, radiant as the moon and shining brilliantly with her white garments and ornaments. Siddhidhatri represents Devi Parvati in her stage of reaching her highest and supreme form, knowing who she is as she has been established as the complete manifestation of Goddess Mahashakti, thus reaching her status of becoming a Goddess.
Although every day of this nine-day festival is important it is from the 7th day the festival enter's its final stage. On the 7th day, the most fierce form of Durga is worshipped which is known as 'Kalratri'. It is believed on the ninth of the 7th day several spirits and ghosts who are assistants of Maa Kali roam here and there in the night sky. To satisfy their hunger and seek their blessing certain special rituals are performed such as Throwing black and white lentils in all four directions, applying red vermillion on all doors of the house, etc. The eight-day marks the culmination of regular fasts in which only one meal is taking in 24 hours, preferably after evening prayers. On this day several rituals and special prayers are performed, which ends with a grand aarti. On this day eight types of homemade dishes are offered along with sweets and fruits.
After 8 days of regular worship and fasting the 9 day festival of Navratri is concluded on the 9th day with special aarti, havan, and Kanya Poojan(special worship of Girl child's). The day starts with the recitation of mantras and holy chants by the elders and women of the house. On this day several dishes like Puri(fried bread), chana(chickpeas), halwa(sweet dish made up of semolina) are made, different types of fruits and sweets are offered to the goddess as "Prasad" or Holy offering. After hours of holy recitation and offerings of flowers, money, perfume, jewelry, red clothes, the 9-day worship is concluded with Aarti. After Aarti, the Holy barley plant is cut up with a silver coin(which had grown to inches in 9 days) so that it can be distributed to everyone as a blessing of the goddess. After performing all the above rituals then comes the most important ritual "Kanya pooja".In India, all the women are considered as incarnations of goddesses but there is immense importance of small girls who are believed to be living incarnations of Goddess. Your worship and offerings of 9 days are believed to be unsatisfactory to the goddess until you perform "Kanya Poojan".In "Kanyapoojan" a group of girl children (usually 9 in number) are worshipped as living goddesses after completing all rituals on the ninth day. Their feet are washed, Red vermilion(tika) is applied on their foreheads, Fruits, sweets, gifts, and money is offered to them. At last after getting blessings from the small girl child and kids the whole 9-day Festival is believed to be successful.
On the tenth day, Vijay Dashami is celebrated which marks the victory of good over evil.
In most of northern and western India, Dasha-Hara (literally, "ten days") is celebrated in honor of Rama. Thousands of drama-dance-music plays based on the Ramayan and Ramcharitmanas (Ramlila) are performed at outdoor fairs across the land and in temporarily built staging grounds featuring effigies of the demons Ravan, Kumbhakarna, and Meghanada. The effigies are burnt on bonfires in the evening of Vijayadashami-Dussehra. While Dussehra is observed on the same day across India, the festivities leading to it vary. In many places, the "Rama Lila" or the brief version of the story of Rama, Sita, and Lakshaman, is enacted over the 9 days before it, but in some cities, such as Varanasi, the entire story is freely acted out by performance-artists before the public every evening for a month.
In The Himalayan's: Daishan and the Doli's
While the traditions and rituals of the many Himalayan regions including the Indian states of Himachal Pradesh and Uttrakhand, the Republic of Nepal, and Bhutan are pretty similar to the Terais and Doab, there are many differences at the same time. While in Nepal, the festival of Navratri is known as Dashain (In mountainous region) and Dashara (In Terai area of Nepal), first 8 day's are pretty similar to north Indian traditions and rituals, from the 9th day or from Navami we can observe many rituals and traditions peculiar to the ex-Himalayan kingdom.
This is the longest Hindu festival in Nepal, traditionally celebrated for two weeks with prayers and offerings to Durga, the Universal Mother Goddess. The great harvest festival of Nepal, Dashain is a time for family reunions, exchange of gifts and blessings, and elaborate pujas. Dashain honors the Goddess Durga, who was created out of the shakti or energy of all the gods, armed with weapons from each of them.
Goddess Durga, symbolizing valor and prowess, is worshipped and offered sacrifices to ensure the devotees' progress and prosperity. During the first ten days, pilgrims flock to various river confluences early in the morning and sacred shrines in the evening. Ghatasthapana, Phool Pati, Mahaastami, Navami, and Vijaya Dashami are the series of events under Dashain each marked with a different set of rituals. During the ninth day, the Taleju Temple which is normally out of bounds is also open to the public. The last day, known as Kojagrat Purnima, is the full moon. New clothes, home visits, grand feasts, kite flying, and village swings are the highlights of Dashain.
On the tenth day known as Tika, people are seen moving around with their foreheads covered with rice tika, wearing new clothes. There is much feasting as people visit relatives’ homes to receive tika and blessings. Supriya, a resident of Nepal, added an interesting insight into this festival. According to her "Nepalis say that by swinging, people can relieve the earth of their weight, if only for a few minutes out of the year........Even if they fear they say that they must at least put their foot on the swing".
Nepal is not just about the mountainous regions, it also has an important region known as 'Terai" which are the plains of Nepal, located at the foothills of the Himalayas. This region forms a socio-cultural interface between North India and the Himalayan valleys of Nepal. According to Vivek Baranwal, who resides in Terai " Birgunj Metropolitan City, the business & financial capital of Nepal, holds the country's largest fair during Dashain/Dasahra. The worshipping centers such as Shree Gahawa Mai Mandir (regarded as the main center) at Maisthan-11, Shree Birta Mai Durga Mandir at Birta-4, Two Shree Baudhi Mai Mandirs at Aadarshnagar-10 and Nagwa-16, and Bindawasini Mai Mandir at Bindawasini-19 witness pilgrims from within the country & across the Nepal-India border. There are other minors (in terms of the crowd) sites too where mostly locals worship." The Dashain fairs of Terai(of which Birganj is one of the prime examples) play an important role in the intermingling of Newari(Region of Kathmandu valley) and Ganga-Jamuni Tehjib(The culture of Ganga-Yamuna Doab of northern India).
In the states of Himachal Pradesh and Uttrakhand, the special highlight of Navratri is the "Dolis". A Doli is a Palquin of village gods and goddesses whose local cultic figurines are carried. During Navratri and other special occasions, it is believed that after performing special prayers and rituals, it is believed that the goddesses came alive through this Dolis, after which this Dolis miraculously perform a dance, which is often called as 'Doli Nritya'. The goddess is awakened in this Dolis with the music of Dhol-Dhamau(Traditional drums of this hilly region). After which the Doli is taken up by two-person and the Doli starts moving in any direction which it wishes. It blesses devotees while moving across the compound. Apart from Dolis, it is believed that the Devi also comes inside the Elder Women of the village(sometimes even in young men) who then predicts about future, perform sword dance and various rituals, and blesses the devotees. This type of belief is clearly a syncretic fusion of the indigenous Himalayan tradition with the greater Gangetic traditions of north India.
These syncretic practices become even more emergent during the famed" Kullu Dusheera".
The internationally famed Kullu Dussehra has a distinct cognition. In practice on this day neither the Raja began any campaign for victory, nor any kind of Durga Puja is held as is done in Bengal, nor the Ram Lila is played, nor the effigies of Ravana, Kumbhkaran, Meghnath are burnt. Instead of Ram Lila here, the important Ras Lila is played. In the past, there used to be held Ras Lila, dances concerning Krishna and Gopis, and the entertaining plays of Chandravali, in the camps of Raghunathji. Kullu Dussehra is a week-long congregation of the local devtas and devis, which begins on the tenth of the white lunar period of Asvin and ends on the full moon day. In earlier times shesh (relic) was distributed to all the devatas soliciting their presence in the mela prior to the starting of the Dussehra. Shesh consists of rice (akshat: unbroken rice grains) which the devatas give out to their devotees on different occasions. The three important days of the Dussehra are the appearance of Thakar (Raghunathji), Muhalla (penultimate day of Dussehra), and Lanka Dahan (Burning of Lanka). Actually, the Dussehra starts from the first day of the Navratra. On that day special worship is offered to Raghunathji at Sultanpur.
In the East: Durgo Pujo and sounds of Dhaak
Durgo Pujo or Durga puja (Literally meaning worship of mother Durga) is the Eastern version of the larger Pan-India festival of Navratri. It is celebrated in the states of Bihar, Jharkhand, Orrisa, Assam, Tripura, and most importantly West Bengal and neighboring Bangladesh where this festival is originated. Durga puja is an old tradition of Hinduism, though its exact origins are unclear. Surviving manuscripts from the 14th—century provide guidelines for Durga puja, while historical records suggest that the royalty and wealthy families were sponsoring major Durga puja festivities since at least the 16th-century. The prominence of Durga Puja increased during the British Raj in the provinces of Bengal, Odisha, and Assam. However, in modern times, the importance of Durga puja is more as a social and cultural festival than a religious one, wherever it is observed.
It begins on the same day as Navratri, a nine-night festival in many northern and western states that more broadly celebrates the divine feminine (shakti).
Durga Puja’s first day is Mahalaya, which heralds the advent of the goddess. Celebrations and worship begin on Sasthi, the sixth day. During the following three days, the goddess is worshipped in her various forms as Durga, Lakshmi, and Sarasvati. The celebrations end with Vijayadashami (“Tenth Day of Victory” ), when, amid loud chants and drumbeats, sacred images are carried in huge processions to local rivers, where they are immersed.
The most important highlight of Durgo Pujo is the 'Pandals' or Themed Pavallions in which beautiful idols of lord Durga along with other gods and goddesses such as Saraswati, Ganesh, Kartikeya, etc are installed. This pandal becomes respiratory of Bengali culture and spirituality for five days. Various cultural performances such as dance and plays are performed, different types of Bengali dishes are prepared on different days, people dance on the sounds of Dhaak(which are something like traditional Bengali Drum). Some of the important rituals of Durgo Pujo are Bodhana Pujo(which Involves rites to awaken and welcome the goddess ), Sandhi Pujo(Rites dedicated to climax of the battle between Goddess and Mahishasur), Sindur Khela(Women smear Sindoor or Vermillion on idols and on each other to commemorate the victory of Goddess over Demon), and Dhuni Naach(Ritualized Dance worship with burning Dhuni incense on hands).
The Durga Pujo can be experienced at their best through Pandal hopping in Kolkata, where the largest and some of the most magnificent Pandals of the Subcontinent are made. Although Durga Pujo, is essentially a Bengali festival, in last 30 year's due to globalization and migration of Bengali's the festival have spread across India and different parts of the world.
In the West: On beats of Garba and Dandiya
Gujarat, however, is the only state that erupts into a nine-night dance festival, perhaps the longest in the world. Each night, all over the state, villages and cities alike, people gather in open spaces to celebrate feminine divinity, referred to as Shakti. The dance form known as ras garba (also joined sometimes by dandiya, which uses small wooden sticks), comes from Lord Krishna's worship rather than Goddess worship, from the Gop culture of Saurashtra and Kutch. Stories of relationships between Krishna and the Gopis, and their emotions, also often make their way into the ras Garba music. Nevertheless, the focal point of every Garba circle is the small Goddess shrine erected by each community to mark the beginning of the festival, on the first day of the Hindu month of Ashwin. The shrine includes a garbo, an earthenware pot, in which a betel nut, coconut, and silver coin are placed. Each night the village or urban neighborhood gathers to perform a puja to one of the nine forms of Goddess. The nine nights are also broken up into sections of three; the first is for Durga, the goddess who destroyed an evil force represented by the demon Mahishasura, and who destroys human impurities; the second is for Lakshmi, the goddess of prosperity; the third is for Saraswati, the goddess of wisdom and art. It is a time to celebrate fertility and the monsoon harvest, represented by a mound of fresh soil in which grains are sown. After the puja begins the music; it is unmistakable to those who are familiar with the style and irresistible to many. People begin to dance in a circle, whirling away till late into the night. It is not uncommon to find dancers with swords or lit flames and other spectacles. The traditional dance steps are simple, though over the years people have been inventing more complex steps. Similarly, the music was traditionally acoustic, principally composed of drums and singing, but most people now use amplified sound systems or a blend in the form of a live band with modern instruments. Vadodara is a good place to find the full range of these styles, traditional to modern, acoustic to amplified, simple to complicated, each one represented in its extreme somewhere in the city.
In the Far South: Golu Dolls, Saraswati, and glittering Palaces
In South India, Navratri is celebrated but in a very different way. The focus is on the spiritual and the expression, extremely artistic. In the states of Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, and Andhra Pradesh there is the tradition of decorating Golu Dolls. These displays are typically thematic, narrating a legend from a Hindu text to court life, weddings, everyday scenes, miniature kitchen utensils, anything a little girl would have played with. They are also known as Kolu, Gombe Habba, Bommai Kolu or Bommala Koluvu.During the Golu display season, families visit each other with gifts to view and chit-chat over the Golu display, share festive foods, and sometimes play music or sing devotional songs together. Major Hindu temples such as the Meenakshi temple arrange elaborate Golu displays each year for Navaratri. According to Carthic Kameshwaran, who resides in Tamil Nadu " We have a set of traditions and rituals for Navratri, in which Saraswati Puja is most important, Every evening "Sundal" is made from different chickpeas and Women neighbors, relatives and friends are invited by the lady of the house and are given small traditional gifts like bangles, etc. These visitors typically grace the festival with their singing or art. The Golu is a mixture of family tradition and religious beliefs. It can be 3,5,7 or 9 steps. Each step is representative of an aspect of life, belief, etc. In our family, Top step is our consciousness or our most beloved god/goddess. The next 2 steps are reserved for Gods, one of them usually Vishnu avatars. The next 2 is a mixed representation of saints, figurines, and marriage rituals."
In Kerela, Known as Vidhya-Aarambham (beginning of education), it is a way to initiate a child to the world of knowledge. The major celebrations happen in the last three days of Navratri. The Poojavaipuu ritual is conducted where any kind of study or work is put on hold. Books and tools are kept in front of goddess Saraswati.
In Andhra, The nine days are dedicated to Maha Gauri, the goddess representing womanhood. People celebrate Bathukamma Padunga, a fascinating ritual where women make flower stacks with local flowers during the nine days, and on the final day, this stack is left afloat on a water body.
In Karnataka however, the most popular festival is the Mysuru Dussherra, which traces its origins to 16t Century Vijaynagara empire. This festival is the most awaited event of the small city of Mysore and is often referred to as the Royal Festival due to its exuberant vibe. The procession or parade held on the tenth day of Dasara marks the most prominent aspect of the entire festival. The first procession is on the ninth day of Dasara called the Mahanavami. This procession is held to worship the royal sword and is a time-old tradition that sees a parade of camels, horses, elephants, dancers, and people dressed in the finest of liveries. The Royal Family also presides over the procession and takes part in it. At night, The beautiful decked up Mysore palace with more than 1 Lakh lightbulbs adorning it is a sight to behold.
In the end, I would like to thank Saurabh Uniyal(Uttrakhand), Purnata(Bangladesh), Janak Rai(Nepal), Supriya(Nepal), Vivek Baranwal(Nepal), Carthic Kameshwaran(Tamil Nadu), and others who provided me pics and information from their respective region and contributed a lot in this blog.
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To be continued.....
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